I would consider using “smoke machine” to detect any leaks not visible to the naked eye. thats all Ive done so far.Ĭheck for any vacuum leaks, as it was suggested up in this thread, it is very likely root cause of the issue. Figured either sensor is bad and i need to replace it or it really isnt the problem. i left it off and did a little test drive and truck still would die when i stopped so i plugged it back in and did not replace it. i tried this and had the same effect where my truck would start idling better with the coolant sensor un hooked. It showed him disconnecting the coolant temp sensor and the truck would smooth out and idle good. i found one video online of a guy having somewhat of the same rough idle situation. This helped a bit but did nothing for the problem im having. Since getting the truck back i have replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. i haven’t taken it back to the shop because they did leave off a vacuum line, vent tube and there is a cage like thing within the air filter housing that was also left out and found down on the side of the motor. when i first got the truck back i had the bad idle and stalling condition by the time I made it home. There’s a revised adjustment procedure available if you think it might be out of adjustment. One other idea, problematic throttle position sensor. Before starting down that list, make sure all these are working correctly: battery, ignition system, oil and coolant levels, fuses, vacuum system (including make sure there are no air leaks in the pcv system, at the oil filler cap, etc), fuel pressure, egr, throttle valve, and evap purge valve.
If the idle adjusting screw has been changed, or the computer can’t ever figure it out, there’s 6 pages of instructions in the repair manual on how to deal with incorrect idle rpm using the Nissan scan tool. As long as the idle adjusting screw wasn’t changed, give it some time as it may figure out how to get the correct idle rpm itself. The 2.4 L 4-banger engine seems to use a computer-controlled idle air control device as well as an idle adjusting screw. There’s usually a vacuum line diagram on the underside of the hood, near the emissions & tune-up info, so check what you have compared to that diagram. It may be the shop that fixed the MAF forgot to hook up one of the vacuum lines, or hooked it up incorrectly.
Idles badly but drives ok can be a too-lean condition at low rpms, often caused by vacuum leaks.
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